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Lactic acid is the second most researched alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) right after glycolic acid. It is known for its gentle yet powerful exfoliating properties, lactic acid can transform your skin by improving texture, tone, and overall radiance. If you’re new to this ingredient, you’re in the right place. You will find lactic acid in creams, serums, moisturizers, cleansers, and sunscreen, to name a few. Unlike glycolic acid, lactic acid is not used as an in-office peel and is larger than glycolic acid.

Lactic acid is one of the oldest AHA’s and probably Cleopatra’s favourite. Legend has it that Cleopatra bathed in sour milk. And yes, sour milk is the major source of lactic acid. Lactic acid is both an exfoliant and hydrophilic (water-loving or water-soluble).

This post will walk you through everything you need to know about using lactic acid serum, especially if you’re a beginner.

How to Use Lactic Acid Serum for Beginners

What Is Lactic Acid?

A Swedish Chemist Karl Wilhelm Scheele was the first to isolate Lactic Acid from sour milk. It is also known as milk acid. When milk sugar (lactose) undergoes fermentation, the by-product is lactic acid.

Lactic acid is an AHA derived from milk, fruits, vegetables, and other plants. Itโ€™s a naturally occurring acid that helps exfoliate the skin by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to slough off and reveal the fresh, healthy skin underneath. Unlike other AHAs, lactic acid is known for its ability to hydrate the skin while exfoliating, making it a preferred choice for people with sensitive or dry skin.

Lactic acid is also present in our skin as sodium lactate and it is part of our natural moisturizing factor. The natural moisturizing factors are a group of amino acids and their metabolites including urea, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid. They support the skin’s barrier function “stratum corneum” and help maintain skin elasticity. Since lactic acid can be found in our skin, it is safe to use during pregnancy. Learn more about skincare ingredients that are not safe to use in pregnancy.

Lactic acid-containing foods are sour dairy products such as yoghurt, cottage cheese, kefir, koumiss and kimchi.

Benefits of Lactic Acid For Skin

1. Exfoliating Dead Skin Cells

Lactic acid gently exfoliates the top layer of the skin, removing dead cells and promoting cell turnover. This helps to brighten your complexion and smooth out uneven skin texture. Lactic acid exfoliates the skin by dissolving the glue between skin cells allowing for better penetration of other skincare ingredients.

The ability of lactic acid to exfoliate your skin is dependent on a few factors. These factors include; concentration, PH, duration of contact with your skin, and volume of product used. You will notice some manufacturers will tell you to leave the product on for 10 minutes or less. The exfoliating properties of lactic acid all depend on how the product is formulated.

2. Improve The Appearance Of Fine Lines & Wrinkles

Lactic acid stimulates collagen production, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making your skin look more youthful.

A study done in 1996 compared a 5% and 12% lactic acid treatment on how it improves fine lines and wrinkles. It was noted that 5% lactic acid treatment improved fine lines and wrinkles by 20% after 4 weeks of application. While 12% lactic acid treatment showed 29%, 38% and 45% improvement after 8, 12 and 16 weeks of treatment respectively.

3. Improves Hyperpigmentation

Regular use of lactic acid can help fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars, leading to a more even skin tone. If your skin can’t tolerate lactic acid, then reduce the frequency or stop using the product as it may lead to more hyperpigmentation especially if you are dark-skinned.

A study used pure lactic acid peel at 92% for 3 weeks on people with Fitzpatrick skin type IV, They reportedly showed improvement in melasma after treatment and no side effect was recorded. Although this study used 92% lactic acid which cannot be gotten over the counter, you can still get similar benefits over the counter.

4. Hydrates And Moisturizes Your Skin

Unlike other exfoliating acids, lactic acid also has humectant properties, meaning it attracts and retains moisture in the skin, keeping it hydrated. Lactic acid stimulates ceramide production in the moisture barrier. Ceramides are fatty acids that are essential for the function of your moisture barrier. This significantly improves your skin barrier function and makes your skin resistant to dryness.

Therefore consistent use of lactic acid moisturizer can help soften your skin as well as boost the moisture content of your skin. Lactic acid is an amazing ingredient if you suffer from dry skin.

5. Increase The Moisture Content of Your Nails

This may be a surprise to you but Lactic acid is great for your nails and your cuticles. Choosing a product with lactic acid can help improve the moisture content of your nails and make your cuticles healthier.

If you are one of those who wear nail polish non-stop, the nail polish can end up drying out your nail plate. You need a lactic acid moisturizer to come to your rescue.

6. Allows Better Penetration Of Other Ingredients

Lactic acid is one of the mildest AHAs, making it suitable for beginners and those with sensitive skin. It also allows better penetration of other ingredients to target those conditions.

How to Choose the Right Lactic Acid Serum

When choosing a lactic acid serum, itโ€™s crucial to consider your skin type and the concentration of lactic acid in the product:

  1. Concentration: For beginners, itโ€™s best to start with a lower concentration, typically between 5% and 10%. Higher concentrations (up to 15%) can be more potent and are usually recommended for those who have already built a tolerance to lactic acid.
  2. Formulation: Look for serums that include hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or soothing agents like aloe vera to counterbalance any potential irritation.
  3. pH Level: Lactic acid serums work best when the pH is between 3 and 4. This ensures that the acid is strong enough to exfoliate effectively but gentle enough to prevent irritation.

Best Lactic Acid Products

The ordinary Lactic Acid + HA – used once a day, this is intended for exfoliating dead skin cells

Neostrata Problem Dry Skin – It resurfaces problem dry, thick skin. It is a thick moisturizer that contains glycolic acid, mandelic acid and Lactic acid. I highly recommend this product if you have dry, rough bumpy skin. It is also amazing for your elbows and knees. You can use this twice a day

PCA skin pigment gel – a great product to target hyperpigmentation. You can combine this with retinol (lower concentration) to target hyperpigmentation instead of using lactic acid or retinol alone. It contains lactic acid, kojic acid, azelaic acid and antioxidants to reduce oxidative stress. You only need a tiny amount to create a thin film. You can use twice a day (Morning and night)

Glo Skin Arbutin + lactic acid drops – arbutin is an ingredient that reduces hyperpigmentation, it targets pathways that lead to discolouration. This product combines arbutin with lactic acid. This product is not intended solely to exfoliate but to enhance penetration of the alpha arbutin. It also improves your skin’s moisture. It can be used twice a day daily.

Replenix Tinted Sunscreen – it contains lactic acid and it’s a sunscreen. Lactic acid in this product is very low acting as a humectant, not an exfoliant

How to Incorporate Lactic Acid Serum into Your Routine

Now that youโ€™ve chosen the right lactic acid serum, letโ€™s talk about how to incorporate it into your skincare routine:

  1. Patch Test: Before applying lactic acid serum to your face, itโ€™s essential to do a patch test to check for any adverse reactions. Apply a small amount of serum to your inner forearm and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs.
  2. Cleansing: Start your skincare routine with a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and makeup from your skin. Avoid using cleansers with harsh ingredients that can strip your skin, as this can increase the likelihood of irritation when you apply lactic acid.
  3. Application: After cleansing, apply the lactic acid serum to your face. Start with a small amount and gently pat it into your skin. Avoid the eye area, as the skin there is delicate and more prone to irritation.
  4. Moisturizing: Follow up with a hydrating moisturizer to lock in moisture and help calm the skin. This step is especially important when using exfoliating acids like lactic acid, as it helps maintain the skinโ€™s moisture barrier.
  5. Frequency: For beginners, itโ€™s best to start using lactic acid serum 2 to 3 times a week, preferably in the evening. As your skin builds tolerance, you can gradually increase the frequency to every other night or even nightly, depending on how your skin reacts.
  6. Sun Protection: Lactic acid makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, so itโ€™s crucial to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 every morning. This will protect your skin from UV damage and prevent hyperpigmentation.

What to Expect When You Start Using Lactic Acid Serum

When you first start using lactic acid serum, you may experience some mild tingling or redness. This is normal and should subside as your skin adjusts to the acid. However, if you notice severe irritation, burning, or prolonged redness, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

Potential Side Effects and Precautions

While lactic acid is generally well-tolerated, itโ€™s essential to be aware of potential side effects:

  • Irritation: Overuse of lactic acid can lead to skin irritation, dryness, and peeling. Always start slow and monitor your skinโ€™s reaction.
  • Sun Sensitivity: As mentioned earlier, lactic acid can increase your skinโ€™s sensitivity to the sun. Never skip sunscreen during the day when using lactic acid in your routine.
  • Not for Broken Skin: Avoid using lactic acid on broken or inflamed skin, as it can exacerbate the condition.

What To Pair Lactic Acid With

Lactic acid is best paired when it is in the same formulation with other ingredients. You can pair Lactic acid with alpha arbutin, azelaic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and kojic acid. However, it is highly recommended to choose a product formulated with these combinations instead of separately to prevent irritation. Read in detail how to pair lactic acid with skincare routines

When to Avoid Lactic Acid

While lactic acid is a versatile and beneficial ingredient, there are certain situations where you might want to avoid it:

  • If Youโ€™re Using Strong Exfoliants: Avoid using lactic acid in combination with other strong exfoliants like retinol or benzoyl peroxide unless directed by a dermatologist.
  • During Active Breakouts: If youโ€™re experiencing an active acne breakout, itโ€™s best to pause the use of lactic acid to prevent further irritation.

What Not To Mix With Lactic Acid?

Do not mix Lactic acid with other strong acids in the same skincare routine, such as:

  • AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling solution
  • Glycolic acid 7% Toning solution
  • Mandelic acid 10% + HA
  • Salicylic acid 2%
  • EUK 134 0.1%
  • Peptides

Conclusion

Lactic acid serum is a fantastic addition to any skincare routine, especially for those new to exfoliating acids. Its gentle yet effective exfoliation can help improve your skinโ€™s texture, tone, and overall appearance. Remember to start with a low concentration, introduce it slowly into your routine, and always follow up with sun protection. With consistent use, lactic acid can help you achieve smoother, brighter, and more youthful-looking skin.

If youโ€™ve enjoyed this guide, please share it with your friends and family, and let me know how lactic acid has transformed your skincare journey in the comments below.

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