Can You Use Azelaic Acid and Retinol Together?

You may have probably encountered these two powerhouse ingredients: azelaic acid and retinol. Both are known for their ability to transform the skin, addressing concerns like acne, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging.

But the big question is, can you use azelaic acid and retinol together? In this post, you will learn what these ingredients do, how they work, and whether they can be part of the same skincare routine.

What Is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It’s a multitasking ingredient that’s been shown to help with acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. It works by reducing inflammation, clearing pores, and inhibiting the growth of acne-causing bacteria. Additionally, azelaic acid can brighten the skin and even out skin tone by reducing the production of melanin, which makes it an excellent choice for those struggling with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or melasma.

Key Benefits of Azelaic Acid:

• Reduces acne and prevents future breakouts
• Decreases redness and inflammation
• Lightens hyperpigmentation and dark spots
• Suitable for sensitive skin

What Is Retinol?

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is often hailed as the gold standard in anti-aging skincare. It promotes cell turnover, which means it helps to shed dead skin cells and make way for new, healthier cells. This process can reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. Retinol is also effective in treating acne by unclogging pores and preventing new breakouts from forming. However, retinol can be quite potent, leading to irritation, dryness, and increased sensitivity, especially when first introduced to your skincare routine.

Key Benefits of Retinol:

• Stimulates collagen production
• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
• Improves skin texture and tone
• Helps treat and prevent acne

To learn more about retinoids, read the beginner’s guide to retinol/retinoids.

Can You Use Azelaic Acid and Retinol Together?

The short answer is yes, you can use azelaic acid and retinol together but in different routines. However, there are a few things to keep in mind to ensure your skin reaps the benefits without unnecessary irritation.

Both azelaic acid and retinol are highly effective, but they can be quite potent, especially when used together. While azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, retinol can be more challenging, particularly for those with sensitive skin. Therefore, it’s important to introduce these ingredients slowly into your routine and monitor how your skin responds. This will help prevent excessive dryness and irritation. A combination of both is highly effective in fighting hyperpigmentation issues like age spots, dark marks, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Research from the Journal of Dermatology found that both azelaic acid and retinol improved hyperpigmentation over a 6 month period. However, when combined, improvements in pigmentation were more noticed within 3 months. Both treatments were well tolerated.

How to Combine Azelaic Acid and Retinol in Your Skincare Routine

1. Start Slowly:

If you’re new to either ingredient, start by using them on alternate nights. This allows your skin to adjust to their powerful effects without overwhelming it. For instance, you could use azelaic acid on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and retinol on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.

Skincare Routine Sample 1 (Morning): Use Azelaic Acid

You can use Azelaic acid daily if tolerated. If your skin gets irritated with Azelaic acid use, reduce the frequency of usage to every other day or twice per week.

Step 1 – Wash Your Face

Use a regular cleanser that is suitable for your skin type. The cleanser should be a non-exfoliating cleanser because Azelaic acid exfoliates your pores and might lead to dryness and sensitivity with too many exfoliating acids. Use cleansers like the CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser or Cetaphil Daily Facial Cleanser.

Gently massage this cleanser for 30 – 60 seconds. Then rinse and pat your skin dry

Step 2 – Apply Azelaic Acid Gel/Cream

Use about a pea-sized amount of Azelaic acid and apply it all over your face and neck. Once done, leave it on your skin, no need to wash it off. Wait for 1 to 2 minutes for azelaic acid to fully absorb before going on to the next step. You can use The Ordinary Azelaic Acid or The Inkey List Azelaic Acid.

Step 3 – Use Your Favorite Sunscreen

The last step in your morning routine is to apply your sunscreen. Take about half a teaspoon and spread it evenly over your face and neck. Leave it on the skin, there is no need to wash it off.

Skincare Routine Sample 1 (Evening): Use Retinols/Retinoids/Tretinoin

Begin with 2-3 times per week. Then as your skin builds tolerant, you can increase the frequency to every other day or every day (as tolerated)

Step 1 – Wash Your Face

You can either use a cleansing oil/balm or your gentle cleanser. Make sure your cleansers are non-exfoliating to avoid irritation. Cleanse for about 30 – 60 seconds or 2 minutes to remove stubborn makeup and sunscreen. Rinse and pat your skin dry. If you have sensitive skin, wait for 5 to 10 minutes before moving on to the next step.

Step 2 – Apply your retinol/retinoids or tretinoin

Apply 3 to 5 drops or 1 to 2 pumps, depending on the product you are using all over your face. Avoid your eyes, lips and nose. Do not rinse. The last step is optional but if you choose to do it, wait 1-2 minutes. If your retinol is a moisturizer, there is no need to do step 3.

Step 3 – Moisturize

If you have dry skin, you can apply your favourite moisturizer. Take a pea-sized amount and apply all over your face and neck. Do not rinse

Additional Tips:

• Start by using each product separately to assess your skin’s tolerance before combining them.
• Begin with a lower concentration of both azelaic acid and retinol, gradually increasing the frequency and concentration as your skin adjusts.
• If you experience any irritation, redness, or discomfort, reduce the frequency of use or consult a dermatologist.
• Always wear sunscreen during the day, as both azelaic acid and retinol can increase sun sensitivity.

By following these simple skincare routines and tips, you can effectively incorporate azelaic acid and retinol into your skincare regimen while minimizing the risk of irritation, sensitivity, and dryness.

Skincare Routine Sample 2 (Evening)

In this routine, you would use both Azelaic Acid and Retinol in the evening but on different days. So let’s start with a sample skincare routine with Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid – Mon/Wed/Fri

Follow the above skincare routine for the Azelaic Acid mentioned. The only thing that will change about the routine is the frequency, which means you should apply Azelaic Acid on alternative days like Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

Retinol/tretinoin – Tue/Thu/Sat

You should follow the same skincare routine as above for retinol. Only the days are changing like Tuesday. thursday and Saturday or Sunday. I suggest you allow your skin to rest on Sunday. Just do a basic skincare routine on Sunday and don’t forget your sunscreen.

Days When You Are Not Using Azelaic Acid & Retinol

Let your skin rest. Yes, just let your skin rest so that it can recover from any dryness or irritation, and then you can start again in a few days. During this time, you can evaluate the combination of Azelaic Acid and Retinol. You may decide to adjust the frequency if the earlier routine is too strong for you.

Your routine should be simple and without Azelaic Acid and Retinol. A simple cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen are fine when you are not using Azelaic Acid and Retinol.

2. Moisturize Generously:

Both ingredients can be drying, so it’s crucial to follow up with a hydrating moisturizer. This will help to soothe the skin and minimize any potential irritation. Look for moisturizers with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and glycerin, which are known for their hydrating and barrier-strengthening properties.

3. Use Sunscreen:

Retinol increases your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, so wearing sunscreen during the day is non-negotiable. Choose a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher and reapply throughout the day to protect your skin from UV damage.

4. Listen to Your Skin:

Pay attention to how your skin responds. If you notice increased irritation, redness, or peeling, reduce the frequency of use or consider alternating between the two ingredients rather than layering them. Everyone’s skin is different, and what works for one person may not work for another.

Who Should Avoid Combining Azelaic Acid and Retinol?

While many people can benefit from using azelaic acid and retinol together, some might find the combination too harsh, especially if you have extremely sensitive skin or are new to active ingredients. In such cases, it might be better to use one ingredient in the morning (azelaic acid) and the other at night (retinol), or to consult with a dermatologist for personalized advice.

Conclusion

Incorporating both azelaic acid and retinol into your skincare routine can provide significant benefits, particularly if you’re dealing with acne, hyperpigmentation, or signs of aging. However, the key is to introduce them gradually and monitor how your skin reacts.

Remember, skincare is not a one-size-fits-all approach. It’s about finding what works best for your unique skin type and concerns. With patience and consistency, you can achieve clear, healthy, and radiant skin using azelaic acid and retinol.

If you’ve tried this combination or have any questions, feel free to share your experience in the comments below!