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I love bakuchiol and I want this ingredient to get into the limelight. If you’re into skincare, you’ve probably heard of retinol – the gold standard for anti-aging and acne treatments. But what if your skin is too sensitive for retinol, and it’s causing your skin to be irritated and dry? Then look into bakuchiol, a plant-based ingredient that’s a gentle yet effective alternative to retinol.
Bakuchiol behaves much like retinol, it is not related to retinol in any way. This powerful antioxidant is impressive for its ability to scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS). But the question still remains, is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?
In this post, you will understand what bakuchiol is, its benefits, how to use it, and why it might be the perfect addition to your skincare routine and if it is as effective as retinol
Table of Contents
What Is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a naturally occurring compound derived from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, commonly known as babchi. It’s been used for centuries in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for its healing properties, but it’s only recently gained popularity in the skincare community.
The seeds of Psoralea corylifolia have also been used in Chinese medicine to treat leukoderma, psoriasis, vitiligo, chronic graft-versus-host disease and other skin disorders. Additionally, they have been utilized to address cardiovascular diseases, nephritis, osteoporosis, and cancer.
Unlike retinol, which is a derivative of vitamin A, bakuchiol is completely plant-based. However, what makes bakuchiol particularly interesting is that it works exactly like retinol, with similar benefits but without side effects. Bakuchiol and retinoids share similar cellular pathways, such as regulating retinoic acid, boosting collagen, and inhibiting the enzymes that break down collagen.
Benefits Of Bakuchiol for the Skin
1. Anti-Aging Properties
Like retinol, bakuchiol helps to stimulate collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Studies have shown that it can improve skin elasticity and firmness, making it an excellent choice for those looking to combat the signs of aging.
A 2014 study found bakuchiol has anti-aging properties by upregulating collagen I, III and IV in the human fibroblast while reducing the enzyme that breaks down collagen. In the same year, another study compared bakuchiol’s anti-aging activity to retinol, which is well-known for its anti-aging benefits. The study found that bakuchiol and retinol had very similar gene expression profiles. Specifically, they observed that bakuchiol upregulated collagen types I, III, and IV.
They decided to formulate bakuchiol into topical products and tested it by applying it to the skin of individuals twice a day for 12 weeks. At the end of this period, they demonstrated that those using topical bakuchiol experienced improvements in wrinkles, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, increased skin firmness, and reduced photodamage, all without any irritation.
They concluded that bakuchiol is an anti-aging ingredient that regulates gene expression comparably to retinol.
2. Can Make Other Ingredients Less Irritating
In a 2017 study, researchers combined bakuchiol with salicylic acid, an acne medication known for its potential to irritate and dry out the skin. They modified salicylic acid by incorporating it with bakuchiol to mitigate these effects.
They named the combination “bakusylan.” The study found that Bakusylan was less inflammatory compared to salicylic acid alone. This suggests that Bakuchiol may have the potential to reduce irritation in other topical products when combined.
3. Bakuchiol Reduces Wrinkles and It Is Less Irritating
One of the biggest drawbacks of retinol is its potential to cause irritation, dryness, and sensitivity, especially for those with sensitive skin. Bakuchiol, on the other hand, is much gentler and less likely to cause these side effects, making it suitable for all skin types.
In a double-blinded study conducted in 2019 with 44 patients over 12 weeks, one group applied 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily, while the other applied 0.5% retinol cream daily. Researchers evaluated participants’ faces at 4, 8, and 12 weeks.
At the end of the study, they found that individuals using bakuchiol, like those using retinol, experienced a reduction in wrinkles and improvement in hyperpigmentation. However, participants using retinol reported more redness and irritation compared to those using bakuchiol.
This suggests that bakuchiol achieves similar effects as retinol but with less irritation.
4. Improves Acne Scars
With its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, bakuchiol is also effective in treating acne. It helps to reduce the appearance of breakouts and prevent new ones from forming, all without the harshness associated with traditional acne treatments.
In a 2015 controlled study with 111 participants, a combination compound containing 0.1% Adapalene (an acne medication), bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract, and mannitol was tested in patients with acne. They compared this combination treatment with Adapalene alone over a period of 2 months.
At the end of the study, it was demonstrated that individuals using the combination product experienced overall improvement in their acne and acne scars compared to those using Adapalene 0.1% alone. Moreover, those receiving the combination treatment reported an enhancement in their overall quality of life.
5. Fades Hyperpigmentation
Bakuchiol has been shown to reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. It inhibits the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots, helping to brighten the complexion and fade discoloration.
In a 2015 study involving 44 women with mild to moderate hyperpigmentation, a compound containing 0.5% bakuchiol, Ophiopogon japonicus root extract, and a 30% vitamin C moisturizer was used for 12 weeks. The combination of this compound resulted in significant improvement in hyperpigmentation.
6. Is An Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Bacterial
Bakuchiol is rich in antioxidants, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors like pollution and UV rays. This protection is crucial in preventing premature aging and maintaining a healthy, youthful complexion.
In a 2016 study, it was discovered that Bakuchiol has nearly twice the antioxidant potential of vitamin E. Researchers applied a cream containing Bakuchiol to patients with acne, finding that the cream effectively regulated sebum composition by increasing levels of linoleic and sapienic acids while decreasing levels of oleic acid. Additionally, Bakuchiol showed effectiveness against the bacteria responsible for causing acne.
Bakuchiol could serve as an adjunct therapy for acne due to its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties.
Best Bakuchiol Products
Paula’s Choice contains 0.3% retinol and 2% Bakuchiol along with peptides and vitamin C. This product is well-formulated and versatile, suitable for daytime use, though it may be more beneficial when used at night. It absorbs into the skin smoothly and is particularly beneficial for oily to combination skin types.
Olehenriksen goodnight glow creme is recommended for mature skin types. It features a pleasant scent and combines AHA (glycolic acid) in its formulation. This moisturizing cream is designed for overnight use and is particularly beneficial for dry or mature skin. However, it contains fragrance, so it may not be suitable for sensitive skin types.
Paula’s Choice Discoloration product is recommended for addressing hyperpigmentation, featuring Tranexamic acid and Bakuchiol. Tranexamic acid is noted for its effectiveness in fading hyperpigmentation, making this product a good choice for those prone to pigmentation issues and seeking a less irritating option.
Burt’s Bees Renewal Eye Cream is noted for its affordability and smooth texture on the skin.
The Inkey List Bakuchiol Moisturizer is recommended for individuals with oily to combination skin types. It is praised for its lightweight texture and affordability.
How to Use Bakuchiol in Your Skincare Routine
Incorporating bakuchiol into your skincare routine is straightforward, and it can be used in various forms, such as serums, oils, and creams. Here’s how to get the most out of this powerful ingredient:
Start Slowly
As with any new skincare product, it’s best to introduce bakuchiol gradually. Begin by using it once or twice a week, then increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance. Although it’s gentle, it’s always a good idea to see how your skin reacts before using it daily. A recommended starting concentration for Bakuchiol is typically between 0.5% to 2%. This range allows you to gauge how well your skin tolerates the ingredient. It’s also important to store Bakuchiol away from sunlight and in a cool, dark place to maintain its stability.
Pair with Hydrating Ingredients
Bakuchiol works well with other hydrating and soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and squalane. These combinations help to keep the skin moisturized and balanced, enhancing the overall benefits of your skincare routine.
Use Morning or Night
Unlike retinol, which is typically recommended for nighttime use due to its sensitivity to sunlight, bakuchiol can be used both morning and night. It doesn’t increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, but it’s still essential to apply sunscreen during the day to protect your skin from UV damage.
Combine with Other Actives
Bakuchiol can be safely combined with other active ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and peptides. This versatility allows you to customize your skincare routine to address multiple skin concerns simultaneously.
Consistent Use for Best Results
Consistency is key when it comes to skincare. For best results, incorporate bakuchiol into your routine regularly. Over time, you’ll likely notice improvements in skin texture, tone, and overall appearance.
Bakuchiol vs. Retinol: Which One Should You Choose?
Retinols are fat soluble and penetrate into the skin when applied and bind to the retinoic acid receptor that is present in the skin to elicit its effect. By doing this, it increases skin’s cell turnover, strengthens the skin barrier, reduces epidermal water loss, protects collagen degradation and promotes the growth of new, fresh skin. Retinol is powerful but it comes with side effects like dryness, peeling, and irritation, especially in the early weeks of use. So most people with sensitive skin can’t tolerate it.
Bakuchiol, on the other hand, offers a similar effect without activating the same receptors in the skin as retinol does. A 2019 study, found that bakuchiol worked just as effectively as retinol by reducing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin elasticity, firmness and pigmentation when used for 12 weeks. In addition to that bakuchiol improved moisture retention and was less irritating.
So, Is Bakuchiol As Effective As Retinol?
Bakuchiol is effective and a great alternative to retinol, especially if you have sensitive skin or your skin is prone to irritation. It provides the same anti-aging, improved skin elasticity, and acne-fighting benefits without the harsh side effects. But is it as effective as retinol? That depends on your skin type and concerns.
If you have resilient skin that tolerates retinol well, you may prefer to stick with retinol for its well-researched, potent benefits. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a gentler option or want something that’s safe for use during pregnancy, Bakuchiol is a great alternative.
Side Effects of Bakuchiol
While bakuchiol is generally well-tolerated, it’s always possible to experience mild side effects, especially if you have extremely sensitive skin. Some users may experience slight redness, irritation, or dryness, particularly when first starting. As with any skincare product, it’s essential to patch test before applying it to your entire face.
Key Takeaway
- Bakuchiol Benefits: Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient that mimics retinol’s anti-aging effects without the irritation.
- Versatility: It’s suitable for various skin types, especially beneficial for oily to combination and mature skin.
- Combination Potential: Bakuchiol can be safely combined with other skincare ingredients like Hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C, and Niacinamide for enhanced benefits.
- Starting Point: Beginners should start with lower concentrations (0.5% to 2%) to gauge skin tolerance before increasing.
- Storage and Usage: Store Bakuchiol away from sunlight in a cool, dark place to maintain its efficacy.
Final Thoughts
In the end, the choice between Bakuchiol and retinol boils down to your skin’s tolerance and your personal skincare goals. If you’re someone who wants the benefits of retinol but without the redness or flaking, Bakuchiol is your go-to. For those who can handle retinol and love its proven results, sticking with it might be the best option.
Remember, skincare is personal. Both Bakuchiol and retinol have their benefits, and finding what works for your skin is what matters most.
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