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Last updated on January 11th, 2025 at 03:16 pm
Starting with retinol in your skincare routine can be a bit daunting, especially for beginners. With so many products, percentages, and types to choose from, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. But donโt worryโthis beginner’s guide will walk you through everything you need to know about retinol and retinoids, including how to use them and which ones are best for your skin type.
But first things first, retinol is completely different from retinoids. I hear most beginners use the term interchangeably but it is not quite the same.
Retinoids vs. Retinol: Whatโs the Difference?
One of the most common misconceptions is that retinoids and retinol are the same thing. While theyโre related, theyโre not identical. Retinoids are a broader family of compounds derived from Vitamin A, and retinol is just one type of retinoid.
Types of Retinoids:
- Retinol: Pure Vitamin A, available over the counter.
- Tretinoin: Also known as retinoic acid, found in prescription products.
- Retinoic Acid Esters (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate): A newer, less irritating form of retinoid.
- Retinaldehyde: A potent form of retinoid that converts to retinoic acid.
- Isotretinoin: Used in severe acne treatments.
- Adapalene: A retinoid available both over the counter and by prescription, often used to treat acne.
It is with no doubt that Vitamin A is part of the royal family when it comes to active ingredients. Another name for Retinol is Vitamin A and to put it simply, its main job is to tell the skin to behave better in a normal healthier way.
So in this post, I plan on breaking it down for a better understanding of retinol and retinoids. If there is anything I miss or am wrong about, please let me know down in the comment box.

Tretinoin: The Gold Standard
Tretinoin is the queen of the royal family because it is the biocompatible form of vitamin A. This means that when tretinoin is applied to the skin, the skin receives it without any conversion. It works right away without any hesitation.
Tretinoin came about when two doctors named Doctor Fulton and Albert Kingman treated patients with acne. Because Tretinoin has anti-inflammatory, anti-acne properties, patients benefited from it. But something out of the ordinary happened with Tretinoin. Other than treating acne, patients reported that their skin got smoother, healthier, bouncier, firmer and even less wrinkled. This was where the research into anti-aging properties of retinoids started.
Subsequent clinical research also proved the anti-aging properties of Tretinoin. Since then Tretinoin is recognised to be the gold standard for fine lines and wrinkles that ultimately got FDA approval. Till today, this is the only active ingredient that is approved by the FDA to reverse signs of aging. This is actually a BIG DEAL!
How Does Tretinoin Work?
Tretinoin works at a cellular level, binding directly to retinoic acid receptors in the skin. This action kicks off immediate benefits without the need for conversion, making it incredibly effective. With Tretinoin, you don’t have to worry about any conversions within the skin. It all just happens like magic.
Skin Benefits Of Tretinoin
- Anti-aging benefits – This is the first on the list due to its FDA approval. Tretinoin does this by inhibiting the enzyme (matrix metalloproteinase) that breaks down collagen. Not only does Tretinoin inhibit the breakdown of collagen but it also boosts the production of collagen which means you get firmer and less wrinkled skin.
- Anti-acne – This was what Tretinoin was originally developed for. It prevents skin cells from sticking together that end up clogging pores. It also helps your skin produce less sebum and has a certain degree of exfoliation.
- Skin-brightener – It also has skin-lightening properties. Although it is not as strong as hydroquinone it helps with hyperpigmentation and sunspots.
The benefits of Tretinoin are simply awesome which may make you want to go out and buy it right now. But I would like you to also know the side effects which are pretty scary.
Side Effects Of Tretinoin Or Retinoic Acid
Just like every other medication, Tretinoin has side effects. The skin becomes highly irritated, and excessive dryness and redness occur. It increases water loss from the epidermal layer and decreases ceramide production. I would suggest you get a moisturizer and sunscreens when using retinoic acid.
Another big issue with Retinoic acid is that it is contraindicated in pregnant women. Its teratogenic effects are not well established but it is highly recommended not to apply or use retinoic acid while pregnant. When it comes to pregnancy, it is best to be cautious.
Lastly, retinoic acid is a prescription medication. So you would have to go to your physician who is aware of your skin condition. Tretinoin is not available in cosmetics or over the counter.

Retinol
Unlike Tretinoin, retinol is available over the counter in many skincare products. However, itโs less potent because your skin needs to convert retinol into retinoic acid for it to work. This conversion process takes time, so the results are slower to appear compared to Tretinoin.
Retinol ——> Retinaldehyde ——> Retinoic acid
Once retinol gets converted by the skin to tretinoin, then we can see the effects mentioned in the description of tretinoin. But it is important to know that not all the retinol products you apply will work immediately. Due to the two-step breakdown, the process might be slow so it takes time to actually see the effects of retinol.
However, the skincare industry has a way of making amazing products that is milder and more gentle that work effectively within a few weeks of usage. There are lots of vitamin A derivatives out there. For example, “The Ordinary” skincare line makes great retinol products that work effectively within a few days.
The newest derivative of Retinol is HPR. HPR stands for Hydroxylpinacolone Retinoate.

Hydroxylpinacolone Retinoate or HPR
I think the Queen of the Royal Family (Tretinoin) will gladly accept the talented princess HPR into their midst. HPR or retinoic acid ester has little to no irritation and it is readily welcomed by the skin. Unlike Retinol which needs to be converted by the skin, HPR needs no conversion. This princess is highly welcomed because it binds directly to the retinoic acid receptor and starts working its magic straight away.
Studies have shown that HPR significantly reduced wrinkles, age spots and hyperpigmentation and another study showed that it has significantly lower irritation than retinol.
Have you noticed that “The Ordinary” skincare line have lots of retinoids? One of them is Gravaactive retinoids. They are simply HPR with other ingredients added to it.
Since this is such a new promising ingredient, not much research has been done on it.

Bakuchiol
This is another promising ingredient that acts like retinol but it is not retinol. It is plant-based and comes from a plant called Psoralea corylifolia. This ingredient is very interesting because Bakuchiol is not even a member of retinol or retinoic acid. However, this ingredient works similarly to retinoic acid.
The biggest similarity is that it inhibits collagen breakdown and also promotes collagen production which is amazing for anti-aging. In fact, a comprehensive study was done between retinol cream and bakuchiol cream. The results showed that Bakuchiol cream did not have any irritation.
Another great news is that it also has anti-acne benefits. For people who are using retinoic acid, retinol or any source of vitamin A for acne purposes, Bakuchiol can be a great alternative. Read all about Bakuchiol in this post “The beginners guide to Bakuchiol“
When Is The Right Time To Start Retinol For Beginners?
Thereโs no specific age to start using retinol, as everyoneโs skin ages differently. However, most dermatologists recommend beginning a retinol regimen in your late 20s or early 30s. For younger individuals, particularly those dealing with acne, products like Tretinoin or Adapalene might be more suitable, but always consult with a physician before starting any retinoid.
How To Start Incorporating Retinol Into Your Skincare Routine
If youโre new to retinol, start with the lowest concentration available, especially if you have sensitive skin. HPR or Bakuchiol are great starting points due to their lower irritation potential. Always do a patch test before applying retinol to your face, and start by using it once or twice a week at night.
Tips for Beginners:
- Patch Test: Apply a small amount to your hand and wait 20 minutes. If no irritation occurs, proceed to use it on your face.
- Moisturize: Use a good moisturizer to combat dryness.
- Sunscreen: Retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so diligent sunscreen use is essential.
It is very important that you monitor the progress and how your skin reacts to it. It may or may not be good for you as we are all different. You should also moisturize deliberately with diligent use of sunscreens every single day.
Conclusion
Thank you for reading this beginnerโs guide to retinol and retinoids. I hope you now have a clearer understanding of these powerful skincare ingredients and how to incorporate them into your routine. Donโt forget to check out my product recommendations, and if you have any questions or tips, leave them in the comments below!
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This is such a great and informative post! I had no idea what the differences were between the two, so thank you so much for sharing all about them!
Thank you, Iโm so glad you found it helpful
Wow, very informative post! I used a prescription retinol gel for acne when I was a teenager & it really irritated / dried out my skin. I’m sure the products are much different today from what I used in the past. If I were to use it now, it would be for anti-aging, lol.
Good info! I donโt know that much about skin care, and want to start making it more of a priority.
Great information, it’s so important to know what you’re putting on your face and what it’s actually for. I have a really hard time with retinoids due to super sensitive skin. Such a shame because they can be complete miracle workers x
Sophie
I absolutely agree with you, it is so important to know what you know the products, uses and possible side effects. We are all different and react differently. Thank you for taking time to read it
Thanks for your detailed post. My skin needs some love now.
I’ve tried retinol twice now using two different products and both times (even though the amount of retinol was very tiny) my skin became really wrinkled within two weeks. I think I probably should have persevered but I hated it so much I had to stop. I’m aware after reading your article that there are different types of retinol so maybe I need to try again with something different. Thanks for writing such a great post! xx
This is something I know nothing about so I found this article highly informative. thank you!
I am so happy that you found this article highly informative in as much as you are not familiar with the topic, it makes me glad. Thank you
Wow! This is some new information, thanks for sharing!
Very educational. I have acne and with definitely try the rosehip oil to see if it helps! Thanks!
I am so glad you found it helpful. Yeah you can give Rosehip Oil a go but be sure it is 100% Rosehip oil.
Quite an informative and helpful post
Thank you
So informative! Love this!!
This has got some great information in it! Thank you!! I feel like Iโve learnt a lot just from reading it โบ๏ธ
Thank you, Iโm glad to hear that โค๏ธ
Great post and really great information and explanation. ๐๐๐
loved this! really well researched!
Thank you ๐
Very informative post. My esthetician recommended me otc retinoid
This is such an info post ๐
This was such a fantastic breakdown of the differences in these chemicals!
I’d love to see a post about how best to incorporate retinol into a skincare routine and what products work safely with it.
Thank you so much for your kind compliment. You have just given me a blog post to write about and I will write up on this. ๐
Thanks so much for this thorough post! It’s an excellent way to breakdown what’s in the products we’re using. Hope you have a great weekend!
Sherry
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I learned so much from reading this post. I really didn’t know much about this topic at all.
Thank you so much, so glad I was able to pass down the information clearly ๐