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Stay with me if you have not heard of Mandelic acid before! Mandelic acid is a very promising skincare ingredient. If you are new to skincare chemical exfoliants, mandelic acid might not be the first name that comes to mind. However, it’s a powerhouse ingredient that deserves a spot in your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or are dealing with hyperpigmentation and acne.

It has long been used in the medical industry as an antibacterial, particularly for urinary tract infections and an antibiotic. Lately, mandelic acid has been receiving attention as a topical skincare treatment.

So what does mandelic acid do for the skin? Dermatologists suggest Mandelic acid as an appropriate treatment for a wide variety of skin concerns, from improving the skin texture, and treating acne to reducing the signs of wrinkles; it is especially good in the treatment of adult acne. Mandelic acid is also recommended for post-laser treatment as it is used to reduce irritation.

This beginner’s guide will walk you through what mandelic acid is, how it benefits your skin, and how to use mandelic acid in your skincare routine effectively.

What Is Mandelic Acid?

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds. Unlike other AHAs, such as glycolic acid, mandelic acid has a larger molecular structure, which means it penetrates the skin more slowly. This slower penetration makes it less likely to cause irritation, making mandelic acid a gentler option for exfoliation, especially for those with sensitive skin or darker skin tones prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Mandelic acid exfoliates by gently lifting up dead skin cells from the surface of the skin; increasing skin turnover and sloughing off dull and rough skin. Mandelic acid is great for all skin types and complexions. It improves skin texture, regenerates cells and promotes a finer, more flexible and hydrated skin layer.

benefits-of-mandelic-acid

Benefits Of Mandelic Acid

1. Fades Hyperpigmentation

Mandelic acid is particularly effective in fading dark spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Its gentle nature makes it suitable for use on darker skin tones without the risk of worsening pigmentation issues.

Research shows that Mandelic acid is used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and melasma due to its anti-inflammatory properties. If your skin is resistant to vitamin C, Glycolic acid or Salicylic acid, you should try Mandelic Acid for hyperpigmentation.

The use of 10% Mandelic acid acid lotion has proven to be effective against Melasma. Combination therapy has yielded effectiveness and better results. A combination of mandelic acid and salicylic acid or Mandelic acid and vitamin C is very effective in treating hyperpigmentation.

2. Treats Inflammatory Acne

Its antibacterial properties make mandelic acid effective in treating acne. It helps to regulate sebum production, unclog pores, and reduce the occurrence of breakouts.

It is known for its anti-bacterial properties making it very effective in treating inflammatory acne (papules and pustules). Studies have shown that 5% is recommended for those with sensitive and moderate acne and 10% for those with oily and severe acne. So you don’t even need a high concentration for acne to see results.

Mandelic acid is equally as effective in treating acne as salicylic acid. A clinical study found that it was much better at treating inflammatory acne and much gentler on the skin, It is less irritating and helps trap moisture onto the skin.

3. Improves Fine Lines/ Wrinkles

Regular use of mandelic acid can lead to smoother, more even skin texture. It helps to refine pores and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Research evaluated the benefits of Mandelic acid and photoaged skin over 8 weeks in women aged (30 – 50 years). They found improvement in oiliness and shine, as well as improvement in fine lines and wrinkles. This effect is due to the lipophilic structure of the molecule and its ability to enhance exfoliation. This also helps promote the production of collagen.

4. Great For Sensitive Skin Type

Mandelic acid is less irritating than glycolic acid and very gentle making it great for sensitive skin. The gentleness is most likely due to Mandelic acid being the largest AHA, as a result, it slowly penetrates the skin. Creams containing 5% mandelic acid are recommended for sensitive skin types.

5. Gentle Exfoliation

Mandelic acid helps to gently exfoliate the skin by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover without the harshness often associated with other exfoliants.

Mandelic acid acts by weakening the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This allows dead skin cells to slough off more quickly. This creates even more toned and brighter skin. The increasing shedding of dead skin cells on the outermost layer of the skin helps other skincare ingredients penetrate the skin and work effectively.

What Are The Side Effects Of Mandelic Acid?

Side effects of Mandelic acid are very rare but can include:

  • redness
  • skin hypersensitivity
  • acne lesions
  • itching

If skin irritation occurs after several days or weeks of using mandelic acid, reduce your frequency or stop use. You know your skin better, if you need to stop using it completely, then stop. If you need to reduce the frequency of the mandelic acid products you are using, then reduce it. You may also discuss with your dermatologist about your side effects.

How to Use Mandelic Acid In Your Skincare Routine

Start Slowly

  • If youโ€™re new to mandelic acid, start by using it once or twice a week. This will allow your skin to adjust to the new ingredient and minimize the risk of irritation.

Use It at Night

  • Mandelic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so itโ€™s best to apply it in your nighttime skincare routine. Always follow up with sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.

Layer It Correctly

  • After cleansing and toning, apply your mandelic acid serum. If youโ€™re using other actives like retinol or vitamin C, itโ€™s best to alternate their use on different nights to avoid overloading your skin.

Hydrate and Moisturize

  • Acids can sometimes be drying, so itโ€™s essential to keep your skin hydrated. Follow up with a hydrating serum like hyaluronic acid and a good moisturizer to lock in moisture.

Monitor Your Skin

  • As with any new skincare product, keep an eye on how your skin reacts. If you notice any signs of irritation, such as redness, itching, or excessive dryness, reduce the frequency of use.

Consistency Is Key

  • For best results, consistency is essential. It might take a few weeks to start seeing the benefits of mandelic acid, so stick with it and be patient.

Who Should Use Mandelic Acid?

Mandelic acid is suitable for a wide range of skin types, but itโ€™s particularly beneficial for those with:

  • Sensitive skin
  • Acne-prone skin
  • Darker skin tones
  • Hyperpigmentation issues
  • Fine lines and uneven texture

If youโ€™ve struggled with harsher AHAs in the past, mandelic acid could be the gentle yet effective alternative youโ€™ve been looking for.

Best Products Containing Mandelic Acid

The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA is great for hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles and uneven skin tone. It is vegan and cruelty-free

Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum features 11% mandelic acid, lactic acid salicylic acid to gently dissolve dead skin cells and battle pigmentation. It also boasts of hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and essential fatty acids to restore the skin barrier.

The Inkey List Mandelic Acid is fragrance and alcohol-free to treat hyperpigmentation and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% skin prep water is a very gentle formula, it is a great option for those with extremely sensitive skin.

Dr Dennis Grosee Alpha Beta Daily Cleansing Gel cleanses the skin of any impurities while keeping your skin hydrated. Best for normal, dry and combination skin types.

Conclusion

Mandelic acid is a versatile and gentle AHA that can help improve various skin concerns, from acne and hyperpigmentation to uneven texture and dullness. By incorporating it into your skincare routine, you can achieve a smoother, brighter, and more radiant complexion with minimal risk of irritation. Remember to start slowly, listen to your skin, and always protect it with sunscreen during the day.

Whether youโ€™re new to skincare acids or just looking for a gentler option, mandelic acid is a fantastic addition to your routine. Give it a try and enjoy the benefits of this underappreciated skincare ingredient.

FAQ

It can cause redness, skin hypersensitivity, acne lesions and itching. If you notice any of these, stop using the product or reduce your frequency and inform your dermatologist of your side effects

It is not advisable to use mandelic acid in the morning as it is light-sensitive. It could cause your skin to be more sensitive under the sun. Also, avoid any activity that can make you sweat when using mandelic acid

Mandelic acid is great for all skin types. However, those with sensitive skin types will benefit more from it due to its large molecule and slow penetration in the skin

You can use mandelic acid once or twice per week during your nighttime routine after cleansing and before moisturizing

Yes, mandelic acid is very safe for dark skin because of its non-irritating action. In dark skin, the risk of hyperpigmentation is magnified, therefore gentle exfoliants like mandelic acid are recommended

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4 Comments

  1. I’ve never heard of mandelic acid but will add it to my regime. Always looking for anything that will improve pigmentation.

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