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If there is one word every African girl needs to know, it is porosity. It is like knowing your skin type. Once you know your skin type, you can know the best type of products that work for your skin. Knowing your hair porosity determines how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture, which is crucial for Afro hair care.
Yet, many people remain unfamiliar with porosity and how it impacts their routine. You may have gone through a whole lot of trial and error with your hair before considering hair porosity. When you understand hair porosity, you are able to determine the right product to use and how related your hair’s pH and porosity are.
In this blog post, you will understand hair porosity, and how it shapes the health and appearance of Black hair. Ready? Letβs begin.
Table of Contents
What Exactly Is Hair Porosity?
Simply put, porosity refers to your hairβs ability to absorb and retain moisture. Imagine your hair like a wooden fence. When the fence is new, it is able to shield the surroundings from rain, sun, wind and any other thing. As it ages, the fence begins to weaken and the protective barrier is breached. Over time, holes begin to form in the fence and it becomes porous. Our hair is just like the fence.
As it ages, the protective cuticle begins to crack, peel and lift away making our hair less able to absorb and retain moisture. Older hair is more porous than newer hair, which is why porosity increases as we move from the roots to the ends of the hair.
Afro hair tend to have low porosity naturally and is usually less porous than Caucasian or Asian hair types unless it has been chemically processed. It is ideal to have somewhere in the middle of the two extremes: hair with good porosity retains moisture well and can accept chemical treatments like colouring or relaxing if desired.
Understanding your hairβs porosity helps you choose the right products, establish an effective hair care routine, and achieve the healthiest hair possible. But hereβs the thing: no two heads of Black hair are exactly the same. Your porosity level could be low, medium, or highβand thatβs what weβll explore next.
The Three Levels of Porosity
Low Porosity Hair
Low porosity hair is known for its tight cuticles, which makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate. Imagine trying to pour water on a tightly sealed surface; it just sits on top. Thatβs essentially what happens when you apply products to low porosity hair. The cuticles are so tightly closed that water and oils struggle to get in.
But once moisture does get in, low porosity hair can retain it quite well. The challenge is finding the right techniques to hydrate this hair type effectively. People with low porosity hair often notice that products sit on their hair rather than being absorbed. This can lead to build-up and weigh the hair down, making it look greasy or lifeless. The key to managing low porosity hair is to open up the cuticle slightly to allow moisture inβoften through steaming or lightweight, water-based products.
For Black Afro hair with low porosity, itβs essential to focus on hydration methods like deep conditioning with heat. Heat helps to lift the cuticles just enough for the moisture to penetrate. Steaming your hair or using a hooded dryer can help ensure that conditioners and moisturizers get absorbed deeply into the strands. Avoid heavy creams and oils that may simply sit on the surface of your hair. Instead, opt for lighter leave-in conditioners and serums that are water-based.
Medium Porosity Hair
Medium porosity hair is often considered the sweet spot. The cuticles arenβt too tightly packed, but theyβre not wide open either. This balance allows the hair to absorb moisture easily without losing it too quickly. Itβs the ideal porosity level, meaning you donβt have to struggle as much with moisture retention compared to the other porosity types.
This hair type typically responds well to most products and styles. People with medium porosity hair can enjoy the best of both worlds: their hair holds onto moisture well, and it also takes to styling treatments like color or heat with minimal damage. However, itβs still important to monitor your hairβs condition over time. Even medium porosity hair can shift to high or low porosity if overexposed to heat or chemical treatments.
For Black hair with medium porosity, regular maintenance is key. Deep conditioning every couple of weeks should be enough to keep moisture levels balanced. You can use a variety of products, from lightweight leave-ins to thicker creams, depending on your hairβs texture and needs.
High Porosity Hair
At the other end of the spectrum, high porosity hair has raised cuticles, which allow moisture to enter quickly but escape just as fast. Itβs like trying to fill a bucket with a hole in the bottomβno matter how much moisture you add, it doesnβt seem to stay.
High porosity hair is often the result of damage from heat, chemicals, or environmental factors, but some people are naturally born with it. This hair type absorbs water and products very quickly, but because the cuticles are so open, moisture also evaporates quickly. As a result, high porosity hair is prone to frizz, tangling, and breakage. The good news is that, with the right care, you can keep high porosity hair well-hydrated and manageable.
The primary goal for high porosity hair is to seal in moisture. Products that are rich in oils, butters, and proteins can help fill in the gaps in the cuticle, locking in moisture for longer. Layering your productsβstarting with a leave-in conditioner followed by an oil and a creamβcan create a moisture barrier that helps keep the hair hydrated.
How to Determine Your Hairβs Porosity
Before you can begin treating your hair according to its porosity, you need to figure out where your hair falls on the porosity spectrum. Luckily, there are a few simple tests you can do at home:
- The Water Test: Take a strand of clean, product-free hair and place it in a glass of water. If the hair floats, you likely have low porosity. If it sinks slowly, you have medium porosity. If it sinks quickly, you probably have high porosity.
- The Product Test: When you apply products to your hair, do they sit on top, get absorbed after some time, or disappear almost immediately? If they sit on top, your hair is low porosity. If they get absorbed easily but not too quickly, you have medium porosity. If they absorb right away, your hair is high porosity.
- The Slip Test: Take a strand of hair between your fingers and run them from root to tip. If the strand feels smooth, you have low porosity. If it feels rough or bumpy, you likely have high porosity.
Tailoring Your Hair Care Routine to Your Porosity
Once youβve identified your hairβs porosity level, you can fine-tune your hair care routine to meet its specific needs. Remember, Black hair is incredibly diverse, and even if two people have the same porosity level, their hair may still respond differently to products and techniques.
For low porosity hair, focus on hydration methods that involve heat, such as deep conditioning treatments with a steamer or hooded dryer. Look for products with humectants like glycerin, which attract moisture from the air into your hair. Avoid heavy creams and oils that may lead to build-up. Instead, go for lightweight leave-ins and serums.
If you have medium porosity hair, maintaining balance is your primary goal. Youβre in the sweet spot, so donβt overdo it with heavy products. A regular deep conditioning routine paired with lightweight oils and creams will help keep your hair moisturized without weighing it down. Medium porosity hair can handle a wide range of products, so experiment to find what works best for your unique texture.
For high porosity hair, the focus is on sealing in moisture. Start with water-based moisturizers, then seal with heavier oils and creams to keep that moisture locked in. Protein treatments are essential for repairing gaps in the cuticle and strengthening the hair shaft. Just be cautious not to overdo protein treatments, as they can sometimes lead to brittleness if used too frequently.
Final Thoughts: Embracing Your Porosity for Healthier Hair
Porosity is one of the most important factors in African-Black hair care. Once you understand your hairβs ability to absorb and retain moisture, you can customize your routine to fit its needs. Whether your hair is low, medium, or high porosity, thereβs a solution to help it thrive.
With the right products, techniques, and a little patience, you can give your hair the care it needs to stay healthy, hydrated, and strong. So, embrace your hairβs porosity.
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