Why Is African Hair So Different?

I am in the bathroom, staring at the dozens of my broken, dry hair on the floor and it keeps me wondering why my hair is so different. Why can’t I just have straight moving hair that does not require so much manipulation? Why did women of other races have soft and shiny hair? Why is African hair so different?

It occurred to me that I just don’t understand my hair. In that day in the bathroom, I realised something was fundamentally wrong with the way I handled my hair, the endless shampooing, relaxing, protein treatment, needed to stop. This is why I am writing this blog post for any other African girl like me, wondering why their hair is so different from other races.

We need to understand our hair. The beauty of our hair lies in its uniqueness, versatility and complexity. Understanding its structure, why it breaks so often and why it is so different from other races is crucial for proper care. Many people like me, with textured hair face challenges. These often stem from a lack of understanding about how different it is from other hair types. If you’re new to this journey or you want a deeper insight, this guide will walk you through the essentials.

Why Is African Hair So Different?

African hair differs from other hair in hair fibre and composition. Although, our hair looks thick, coarse and tough on the outside but because of its physical composition, it is not as strong as it appears. African hair requires extra care because every twist, bend and curl represents weakness and vulnerability along the hair fibre.

Unlike other hair types, African hair grows in tight, spiral-like curls due to the elliptical shape of its follicles. This structural feature is what gives our hair its characteristic volume and bounce. However, it also contributes to some common challenges such as dryness, breakage, and shrinkage.

The scalp is the birthplace of hair and if kept in proper condition, it will produce quality healthy hair. The scalp produces sebum. The sebum’s main job is to condition the scalp and act as a barrier to prevent moisture loss. In African hair, this sebum has a hard time travelling down the hair shaft. As a result, moisture doesn’t spread evenly throughout the hair, leading to dry ends and breakage.

To make matters worse, our hair is prone to high shrinkage. Shrinkage, the hair’s tendency to contract and appear shorter than its actual length, is a sign of healthy elasticity. Yet, it can sometimes frustrate those who desire length. Understanding these natural tendencies can help you embrace your hair while managing its unique needs.

The Three Layers of Hair

Just like all hair types, African hair is made up of three layers: the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla. But the arrangement and behaviour of these layers vary in textured hair, making it behave differently under different conditions.

The outermost layer, the cuticle, is made up of overlapping cells that protect the hair. Think of it as a shield. In healthy hair, these cells lie flat, giving the hair a smooth, shiny appearance. However, textured hair often has raised cuticles due to its bends and twists, which make it more prone to moisture loss and damage. When these cuticles are raised, your hair is exposed to the elements, making it more vulnerable to environmental stressors like pollution and humidity.

Beneath the cuticle lies the cortex, the thickest layer responsible for the hair’s strength, texture, and color. This is where melanin, the pigment that gives hair its color, resides. African hair, with its darker pigments, is rich in eumelanin, the type of melanin that provides brown to black tones. The tightly packed nature of African hair’s cortex makes it strong but also susceptible to breakage when not handled properly.

Lastly, the medulla, which is the innermost layer, is typically present in thick, coarse hair and sometimes absent in finer hair types. Its function is still unknown, though it’s thought to play a role in the hair’s overall structure and strength. African hair, with its thicker strands, often contains a well-defined medulla.

Why Does African Hair Tend to Be Dry?

Now that you know African hair has unique structural properties, you might wonder: why is it so prone to dryness? As mentioned earlier, African’s hair curly structure makes it difficult for natural oils to travel down the length of the hair. This is why moisture is one of the most important factors in textured hair care. Water is life, and for African hair, water is essential to keep it soft, pliable, and manageable.

Moisture retention also depends on the hair’s porosity. Porosity refers to how well your hair can absorb and retain moisture. African hair can be low, medium, or high porosity, and each type requires different care techniques. Low porosity hair has tightly closed cuticles, making it difficult for moisture to penetrate. High porosity hair, on the other hand, has raised or damaged cuticles, causing it to absorb moisture quickly but lose it just as fast. Understanding your hair’s porosity will allow you to choose the right products and care regimen to lock in moisture.

Curl Patterns and Texture Types

One of the most defining features of African hair is its curl pattern. These curls range from loose waves to tight coils, often classified into four categories: Type 3 hair (curly) and Type 4 hair (coily or kinky). Each curl pattern has its own set of characteristics and challenges.

• Type 3 hair has a well-defined curl pattern that can vary from loose spirals to bouncy ringlets. This type of hair is prone to frizz and needs regular moisture to maintain its definition.
• Type 4 hair, on the other hand, is the most textured. It forms tight coils that can either be in the shape of zigzags or corkscrews. Type 4 hair is extremely delicate and requires careful handling to avoid breakage.

Both curl types benefit from protective styling and deep conditioning, but they also have unique needs. For instance, Type 4 hair, with its tighter curls, may need heavier products, such as creams and butters, to keep it moisturized.

Image adapted from Google images

Why Is Shrinkage Both a Blessing and a Challenge?

Shrinkage is often misunderstood. It occurs when the hair contracts after drying, making it appear much shorter than it is. Many people see shrinkage as a drawback, but in reality, it’s a sign of healthy elasticity. Healthy hair stretches when wet and returns to its original state when dry. This elasticity helps prevent breakage by allowing the hair to bend without snapping.

However, managing shrinkage can be tricky. It makes detangling more challenging and can lead to tangles and knots if not properly cared for. Stretching techniques, such as braiding or twisting, can help reduce shrinkage and make styling easier. But remember, shrinkage is part of the beauty of Black hair. It’s a visual testament to the hair’s resilience and health.

How to Protect the Structure of African Hair

With the right care, African hair can thrive. Protecting its unique structure requires understanding its needs and being proactive with maintenance. One of the best ways to protect textured hair is through protective styling. These are styles that reduce manipulation and prevent breakage, such as braids, twists, or buns. Protective styles shield the ends of your hair, where breakage is most likely to occur, and help to retain length.

Another key aspect is moisture retention. Incorporating deep conditioning treatments and moisturizing products into your routine will help maintain hydration levels. Opt for products rich in humectants like glycerin or aloe vera, which attract moisture from the environment into the hair. Sealing in that moisture with oils or butters ensures your hair stays hydrated for longer periods.

Be mindful of heat styling. While tools like flat irons and curling wands can offer versatility, they can also damage the hair’s structure if used improperly. Always use a heat protectant and opt for lower heat settings to reduce the risk of heat damage.

Final Thoughts on Why African Hair Is So Different

Understanding the structure of African hair is the first step in learning how to care for it. It’s about more than just managing your curls—it’s about embracing the unique qualities that make textured hair so versatile, beautiful and different. By understanding its anatomy, from the cuticle to the cortex, you can tailor your routine to meet its needs. Moisture is key. Gentle handling is essential.

So, love your hair. Appreciate its complexity and uniqueness. And give it the care and attention it deserves.