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Afro hair is different from other hair types. Our hair is in desperate need of moisture and hydration. Unfortunately, you will hear some people say “Water can dry out your hair”. This misinformation makes many of us not take advantage of weekly cleansing and conditioning to maintain healthy hair. How can water dry out your hair? I am yet to get it.
The question we should be asking ourselves is “How is it possible that people who shampoo and condition their hair weekly, experience dryness?” Despite constant moisture? This is why we need to learn how to moisturize our textured hair properly to avoid dryness and breakage.
In this post, you will learn why some haircare products like shampoo and conditioner break your hair, why moisture is very important for afro hair and the best way to properly moisturize your hair.

Why Some Haircare Products Break Your Hair
So you have been shampooing and conditioning weekly, yet your hair is breaking. This is because your product is not well suited for frequent use and is improperly designed for textured hair. You are most likely using oily silicone-heavy conditioners, moisturizers or grease or harsh stripping shampoo.
None of these products helps to moisturize the hair’s scalp and fibres, this is why your hair is drying out and breaking easily. What you need is a gentle shampoo formula or even a shampoo-less hair care regimen. Moisture is very critical for black hair.
Why Is Moisture So Critical for Black Hair?
Black hair is naturally prone to dryness. The curly or coily structure of textured hair makes it harder for natural oils, like sebum, to travel from the scalp to the ends of the hair. Sebum plays a crucial role in keeping hair moisturized and protected. However, in Black hair, the bends and curves in the strands create roadblocks, preventing the oil from evenly coating the hair. As a result, the ends often lack the necessary moisture to stay soft and healthy, leading to dryness, breakage, and damage.
Moisture is essential to help us reduce internal frictional forces between our hair fibres. It gives hair the ability to stretch without snapping. Hydrated hair is more elastic, meaning it can bend, twist, and manipulate into different styles without breaking. Dry hair, on the other hand, is rigid. It snaps easily when stretched, leaving you with split ends and breakage. Moisture is, therefore, the key to length retention and hair strength. Without it, Black hair becomes fragile and difficult to manage.
The Role of Water in Moisturizing Black Hair
Before we go into how to properly moisturize textured hair, you need to understand our hair loves water. Afro hair thrives in a high-moisture, hydration-focused environment. The protein that makes up our hair is attracted to water, it even starts seeking out water from the environment.
So when you start applying heat such as blow drying, or flat ironing; water evaporates in order to straighten the hair fibre. Sometimes, instead of water, some use oils and butters which do not provide any hydration on their own except to seal in moisture. But if there is no moisture in your hair, what are you sealing? This is why incorporating water-based products into your hair care routine is so important. Every effective moisturizing routine starts with water.

When your hair is properly hydrated, it feels soft, smooth, and flexible. You’ll notice less frizz, fewer tangles, and more shine. Water penetrates the hair shaft, plumping the strands and helping them maintain their natural shape. However, because Black hair’s structure makes it harder for water to stay locked in, you’ll need to use techniques and products that ensure moisture retention.
To make the most of moisture, it’s important to layer your products properly. The best method is the LOC (Liquid, Oil, Cream) or LCO (Liquid, Cream, Oil) method. This technique involves applying a liquid (often water or a water-based leave-in conditioner) first, followed by an oil to seal in the moisture, and finally a cream to lock it all in. This layering technique ensures that the moisture stays trapped in the hair shaft for as long as possible.
Moisture and Porosity: How Your Hair Absorbs Water
Porosity, as we covered earlier, plays a huge role in how your hair absorbs and retains moisture. If you have low porosity hair, your hair’s cuticles are tightly closed, making it harder for moisture to penetrate. High porosity hair, on the other hand, has raised cuticles, making it easy for moisture to enter but also allowing it to escape just as quickly.
For low porosity hair, moisturizing is all about opening the cuticles to let the moisture in. This can be done using heat—either from a steamer, a hooded dryer, or a warm towel. Heat gently lifts the cuticles, allowing water and moisturizing products to penetrate deeply into the hair. Once the moisture is inside, it’s important to seal it in with a lightweight oil, like argan oil, which won’t weigh your hair down.
High porosity hair requires a different approach. Because the cuticles are already raised, this hair type absorbs moisture easily. The challenge is keeping that moisture locked in. To do this, you’ll need to use thicker, heavier products that help seal the cuticles and prevent moisture from escaping. Butters, creams, and oils like castor oil are excellent for high porosity hair because they coat the hair, locking in moisture for a longer period.
How to Properly Moisturize Black Hair
Moisturizing Black hair is both a science and an art. It’s about knowing what your hair needs and how to give it the hydration it craves. Here’s a step-by-step guide to properly moisturizing your hair:
- Start with Water
Whether you’re refreshing your curls in the morning or starting a wash day routine, water should always be the first step. You can either spray your hair with water using a mist bottle or wash your hair with a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo. The goal is to make sure your hair is thoroughly hydrated before you apply any products. - Apply a Water-Based Leave-In Conditioner
After your hair is wet, apply a leave-in conditioner to add moisture. Look for products that list water as the first ingredient. These conditioners will help detangle your hair and add an extra layer of hydration to keep your strands soft and manageable. - Seal with an Oil or Butter
After applying your leave-in conditioner, use a natural oil or butter to seal in the moisture. For low porosity hair, lighter oils like jojoba or grapeseed oil work best because they don’t weigh the hair down. High porosity hair, however, benefits from heavier oils like castor oil or shea butter, which help fill in the gaps in the cuticle and keep moisture locked in. - Finish with a Cream
To fully lock in the moisture, apply a moisturizing cream or styling butter. This final step helps to smooth the cuticles and provide lasting moisture throughout the day. It also gives your hair definition and prevents frizz, making your curls pop. - Refresh As Needed
Throughout the week, you’ll need to refresh your hair to keep it moisturized. You don’t have to start the entire process over every day. Instead, lightly mist your hair with water or a water-based refresher spray, and reapply your sealing oil or cream as needed. This will help you maintain soft, moisturized curls without the need for constant manipulation.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Moisturizing Black Hair
Moisturizing Black hair might seem straightforward, but there are a few common mistakes that can prevent you from achieving the best results. Let’s look at what not to do:
- Skipping Water
Many people mistakenly think that oils and butters alone can moisturize their hair. In reality, these products only seal in moisture—they don’t provide hydration themselves. Always start with water or a water-based product before applying oils or creams. - Overloading on Products
While layering is important, using too many products can cause build-up, which leaves your hair feeling greasy and weighed down. Stick to the basics: water, leave-in conditioner, oil, and cream. If you find that your hair is getting too greasy or heavy, cut back on the amount of product you’re using. - Not Adjusting for the Weather
The environment plays a huge role in how well your hair retains moisture. In humid climates, your hair may need lighter products that don’t attract too much moisture from the air, leading to frizz. In dry climates, you’ll need heavier products to combat the lack of humidity and keep your hair from drying out. - Neglecting Night-Time Care
Moisture retention doesn’t stop when you go to bed. To maintain hydrated hair, it’s important to protect your strands while you sleep. Use a satin or silk bonnet, scarf, or pillowcase to prevent moisture loss and minimize friction, which can cause breakage.

When Should You Moisturize Your Hair?
- You should always moisturize your hair several times in a week or whenever your hair feels dry. If you have natural hair, it is important that you moisturize your hair daily.
- You don’t have to moisturize your hair several times a day. Just once is enough. If you are always moisturizing several times a day, it could mean the moisturizer isn’t working or you are dealing with hair porosity issues.
- The best time to moisturize your hair is just before bed, before combing or manipulating your hair and before going outdoors. Focus on moisturizing the ends of your hair because this is where your hair is oldest and it can easily be traumatized.
- In addition, don’t forget to tie up your hair with a satin bonnet to reduce friction between the hair fibres that may occur during late night turning and tossing
The Benefits of Deep Conditioning for Moisture Retention
One of the most effective ways to infuse moisture into Black hair is through deep conditioning. A good deep conditioning treatment penetrates the hair shaft, providing long-lasting hydration. It’s like giving your hair a tall drink of water, allowing the moisture to sink in and stay there.
For best results, deep condition your hair once a week, or more often if your hair is particularly dry. Choose a deep conditioner with hydrating ingredients like honey, aloe vera, or glycerin, which help to attract and retain moisture. Applying heat during your deep conditioning treatment—such as sitting under a hooded dryer or using a thermal cap—will help open the cuticles and allow the product to penetrate deeply.
Final Thoughts
Moisture is the cornerstone of Black hair care. Without it, our curls, coils, and kinks become dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. By understanding how to properly hydrate and seal moisture into your hair, you can maintain healthy, beautiful strands that are soft to the touch and full of life.
So, make moisture a priority. Whether your hair is low, medium, or high porosity, there’s a solution for keeping it hydrated and happy. Remember, hydrated hair is healthy hair. And when your hair is healthy, it’s easier to style, manage, and love.
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