Vitamin C Derivatives – Best Alternatives for Brighter Skin

Last updated on September 27th, 2024 at 07:30 am

Since the discovery of Vitamin C in the 1930s, extensive research has revealed its incredible benefits, particularly in skincare. Many of us grew up with our mothers reminding us to take Vitamin C for colds and flu, but its benefits go far beyond boosting immunity.

While consuming Vitamin C-rich foods like citrus fruits, black currants, and leafy greens is essential, applying Vitamin C directly to the skin can have even more profound effects on your complexion.

Why Topical Vitamin C is Essential for Your Skin

Our bodies can’t synthesize Vitamin C, so we rely on diet and supplements to get this vital nutrient. However, ingesting Vitamin C doesn’t significantly increase its levels in the skin due to the limitations of the gastrointestinal tract.

Even when some Vitamin C does reach the skin, exposure to sun radiation can quickly deplete it. This is why topical Vitamin C serums are a must for enhancing skin health and appearance.

Here are the top vitamin c derivatives but first learn vitamin c skincare benefits:

Top 5 Benefits Of Using Vitamin C Serum For Your Face

1. Promotes Collagen Production and Reduces Wrinkles

Collagen, a protein found in the dermal layer of the skin, makes up about 75% of its structure. It’s essential for maintaining smoothness and elasticity. However, as we age, collagen production decreases, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin. Vitamin C plays a critical role in collagen synthesis by interacting with amino acids and boosting production, resulting in firmer, bouncier, and healthier skin.

For collagen to properly form within the skin without breaking down, it needs vitamin C. Without Vitamin C, the formation of collagen is disrupted. Therefore the addition of vitamin C interacts with the amino acid within the collagen and adds hydrogen and oxygen to boost collagen production.

2. Protects The Skin From Sun Damage

Vitamin C serum is a very powerful antioxidant meaning it neutralizes and removes free radicals that could potentially damage the skin. It protects the skin from toxins from the environment and also UV radiation. Vitamin C has shown to be the most potent in providing antioxidant protection through enzymatic and non-enzymatic ways.

For vitamin C serum to be a very effective antioxidant, it must be used together with vitamin E and/or Ferulic Acid. This combination makes vitamin C able to recycle vitamin E into its active form thereby regenerating the antioxidant protection.

3. Reduce Hyperpigmentation/Dark Spots

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin problem that is very undesirable. It can happen to any skin type but it is more prominent in the skin of colour. The gold standard for treating hyperpigmentation is by using hydroquinone.

However, using vitamin C serum to treat hyperpigmentation also works because the antioxidant effect of vitamin C inhibits melanin production. Also, the application of vitamin C serum on the skin stays on the skin without getting easily washed off like sunscreens. This gives it protection from hyperpigmentation caused by the sun.

4. Hydrates The Skin

As we age, the skin begins to lose its natural moisturizing factors such as ceramides, and cell renewal is reduced. This makes the skin looks dry, dull, and rough. Studies have shown that the addition of vitamin C serum protects the skin from losing water and helps decrease skin roughness.

5. Promotes Wound Healing

Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties and collagen-boosting effects, Vitamin C aids in wound healing and can improve skin conditions like acne and rosacea.

Vitamin C Derivative Serums

Now that we’ve covered the benefits of Vitamin C, let’s dive into its various derivatives. While pure L-Ascorbic Acid is the most potent form of Vitamin C, it’s also highly unstable and prone to oxidation. This has led to the development of several Vitamin C derivatives that offer similar benefits with greater stability. Here are some of the best:

L-Ascorbic acid

This is the purest form of Vitamin C and works immediately upon application, making it a potent antioxidant. However, L-Ascorbic Acid is very unstable and can oxidize quickly when exposed to light and air. To address this, some companies, like Skinceuticals with their C E Ferulic, have successfully formulated L-Ascorbic Acid in a stable form with a pH below 3.5, making it highly effective.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD)

THD is an oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative known as the “gold standard” due to its stability and effectiveness. It penetrates deep into the skin, where it’s converted into active L-Ascorbic Acid. THD offers antioxidant protection, boosts collagen production, and brightens the skin. You can find this derivative in products like Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil.

Magnesium Ascorbyl phosphate

This derivative is known to increase skin’s hydration as well as calm the skin from sensitization. It also brightens and evens skin tone. Although this derivative can come as a serum it’s creamy in nature. An example is found in Paula’s Choice Super Antioxidant Serum

Ascorbyl Glucoside

A water-soluble derivative, Ascorbyl Glucoside is stable and easy to formulate. It pairs well with niacinamide, another powerhouse ingredient, to boost collagen and deliver other Vitamin C benefits. A great example of this derivative is The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

This stable form of Vitamin C is particularly effective at neutralizing free radicals and reducing signs of photoaging. Once applied, it’s converted into active Ascorbic Acid by enzymes in the skin. You can find this derivative in products like Ole Henriksen Truth Serum.

How to Use Vitamin C Derivatives Serum in Your Skincare Routine

If you’re new to Vitamin C derivatives serums, start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. Derivatives are generally less irritating, making them suitable for sensitive skin. For maximum benefits, apply your Vitamin C serum during the day before sunscreen to enhance antioxidant protection and prevent sun damage.

Conclusion

Vitamin C and its derivatives offer a host of benefits, from protecting against photoaging to boosting collagen production and brightening the skin. Incorporating a Vitamin C serum into your skincare routine is a powerful step toward achieving a healthy, glowing complexion.

Have you tried any Vitamin C derivatives? Share your experience in the comments below!

Photo by Noah Buscher on Unsplash