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Out of all the AHA’s out there, glycolic acid is the most popular and it shows up in so many skincare products. You will find it in creams, serums, lotions, hair care… name it. It is the smallest among all the AHAs; which include malic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and tartaric acid. As a beginner, you might be curious about what glycolic acid is, how it works, and what benefits and potential side effects it brings to your skin.
In this post, I will help you understand how to use glycolic acid for face in your skincare routine as a beginner.
You may also be interested in: ingredients that pair well with glycolic acid
Table of Contents
What Is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It’s known for its small molecular size, which allows it to penetrate the skin more effectively than other AHAs. This makes glycolic acid a powerful exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells from the surface, revealing fresher, brighter skin underneath.
Glycolic acid comes in different strengths. The strength your dermatologist uses as a chemical peel is stronger than the ones found over the counter. The strengths used as the chemical peel is from 30 – 70% while the strengths found over the counter are between 1 – 25%. Over-the-counter glycolic acids are still as effective as the ones used for chemical peels.
Now that we know what glycolic acid is, let’s move to the benefits.
Glycolic Acid Benefits For Skin
1. Treatment For Acne
Glycolic acid helps treat acne by decreasing the ability of the skin cells to bind together. This makes glycolic acid a perfect ingredient to aid the removal of the blockage of hair follicles with excess sebum seen in acne. In addition to that, the small size of glycolic acid is important, because it allows for greater and easier penetration of the glycolic acid to get into the unit and decreases the ability of the cells to clog together. Glycolic acid is more effective in treating non-inflammatory acne than inflammatory acne.
2. Reduce Hyperpigmentation
Glycolic acid helps with hyperpigmentation when used together with sunscreen. When picking sunscreens, use the ones that protect against both UVA and UVB. Sunscreen is only a part of, the use of hats, caps, clothing and sun umbrellas are important. For dark skin tones, glycolic acid should be used sparingly as it may cause the same hyperpigmentation you are trying to treat.
3. Allows Easy Penetration Of Other Ingredients
Glycolic acid opens up spaces between the skin cells to allow easy penetration of other ingredients applied to the skin. For example, if you are using retinol together with glycolic acid to treat acne, care must be taken; glycolic acid allows better, faster and more efficient penetration. Retinoids can be effectively used in conjunction with glycolic acid if used properly.
4. Improves The Appearance Of Fine Lines And Wrinkles
Glycolic acid has been shown to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles most likely due to the formation of dermal cells. Hyaluronic acid is also increased by approximately 50% after glycolic acid treatment. This in turn increases skin hydration and thickness of the skin after 3 months of consistent use.
The ability of glycolic acid to thicken the skin results from its direct effect on the dermal layer of the skin.
5. Improves Dry Skin
Dry skin affects 75% of men and women over the age of 64. It is characterised by the thickness of the skin which mostly results from dehydration and lack of humidity. This is why dry skin tends to improve during the summer and worsen during the wintertime.
Glycolic acids are especially effective in most severe dry skin that does not respond to standard moisturizers. Most dermatologists combine glycolic acid with lactic acid. This combination proffers a greater beneficial effect on dry skin than other moisturizers. They prevent water loss, improve cell turnover and increase ceramide levels.
If you are experiencing severe dry skin, check for moisturizing creams or lotions formulated with glycolic and lactic acids. During the winter time, go for ointment while lotions or creams are preferred during the summer time.
How to Use Glycolic Acid in Your Skincare Routine
Start Slow: If you’re new to glycolic acid, it’s essential to start with a low concentration (around 5%) to allow your skin to adjust. You can gradually increase the concentration as your skin builds tolerance.
Patch Test: Before incorporating glycolic acid into your routine, do a patch test on a small area of your skin to ensure you don’t have an adverse reaction.
Nighttime Use: Glycolic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s best to use it at night. Follow up with a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.
Apply After Cleansing: Apply glycolic acid to clean, dry skin after cleansing. You can use it in the form of a toner, serum, or peel, depending on your preference.
Follow with Moisturizer: After applying glycolic acid, follow up with a hydrating moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated and minimize any potential dryness or irritation.
Frequency: Start by using glycolic acid once or twice a week, then gradually increase the frequency as your skin becomes more accustomed to it.
Potential Side Effects of Glycolic Acid
Irritation and Redness: Glycolic acid can cause irritation, redness, or a stinging sensation, especially if you have sensitive skin or use a high concentration.
Dryness and Peeling: Due to its exfoliating properties, glycolic acid can lead to dryness and peeling, particularly when you first start using it.
Increased Sun Sensitivity: Glycolic acid makes your skin more vulnerable to UV damage, so using sunscreen is crucial when incorporating this acid into your routine.
Purging: Some people may experience an initial breakout when starting glycolic acid, as it accelerates the process of bringing impurities to the surface.
What Strength Of Glycolic Acid Should I Use?
Glycolic acid comes in different strengths and what strength you should use largely depends on your skin concerns. As a general rule, you should always start with a lower concentration, and then work your way up. Glycolic acid between 8 to 10% is considered most effective. You may find over-the-counter glycolic acid creams or serums between 1 to 25%.
If your concern is acne scarring, sunspots or hyperpigmentation, you should consider seeing a dermatologist for a professional chemical peel. Remember, chemical peels come at higher concentrations than those sold over the counter. Chemical peels should never be attempted at home.
Is It OK To Use Glycolic Acid Everyday?
If you are new to the product or if your skin is on the sensitive side, remember not to use it too often due to its exfoliating properties. You should use it once every other day if your skin is capable.
If you find out that your skin is getting too dry, reduce the frequency to twice weekly or once. Also, ensure you are moisturizing your skin well and avoid any other exfoliant when using glycolic acid.
You may notice a slight breakout when you start using glycolic acid for the first time. This is because your skin is purging out dead skin cells. It can be alarming to see your skin purge but it gets better. So stick with it for at least 2 months. If the purging persists past the 2-month mark, discontinue usage and consult your dermatologist.
Who Should Avoid Glycolic Acid?
While glycolic acid is suitable for most skin types, those with extremely sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema may want to avoid it or consult with a dermatologist before use. If you experience severe irritation, it’s best to discontinue use and seek advice from your dermatologist.
Best Products With Glycolic Acid
Planet-Eden 20% Gly-Lactic Body Cream is what you need if you are suffering from extra dry skin. It contains 10% glycolic acid and 10% lactic acid. The presence of lactic acid will improve ceramide levels needed for water retention.
Tula Skincare Pro-Glycolic 10% resurfacing toner is great if you have inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne. You can use this daily morning and evening after cleansing.
La Roche Posay Effaclar Serum is a combination of salicylic acid, glycolic acid and niacinamide – 3-star ingredients to clear out clogged pores. Great for anyone battling with adult acne or hormonal breakout
Need a serum for hyperpigmentation? Then Murad Vita-C Glycolic Serum is your go-to serum. It combines the power of vitamin C and glycolic acid to uneven skin tone and dullness
Need glycolic acid in the form of a peel? Then Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Retinol resurfacing is what you need. It is great for fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin tone and uneven texture. Apply 1 to 2 times a week increasing usage if well tolerated. It contains 20% glycolic acid, so it’s not a great start for those with sensitive skin
Conclusion
Glycolic acid is a powerful skincare ingredient that can deliver impressive results, from brighter skin to reduced signs of aging. However, like any active ingredient, it’s essential to use it correctly to avoid potential side effects. Start slow, listen to your skin, and always protect your skin with sunscreen when using glycolic acid. With consistent use and proper care, you’ll be on your way to achieving glowing, healthy skin.
FAQ
How often should I use glycolic acid to see its benefits?
For most people, using glycolic acid 2-3 times per week is sufficient to experience its benefits without causing irritation. However, if you have sensitive skin, start with once a week and gradually increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance. Always follow with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.
Are there any side effects of using glycolic acid on the skin?
While glycolic acid is effective, it can cause side effects, especially if used improperly. Common side effects include redness, dryness, and irritation. To minimize these risks, start with a lower concentration and gradually increase it as your skin adjusts. Always patch-test new products and avoid using glycolic acid with other strong exfoliants to prevent over-exfoliation.
Can glycolic acid be paired skincare ingredients?
Glycolic acid can be combined with other skincare ingredients, but caution is needed. Avoid using it with strong exfoliants like salicylic acid or retinoids on the same day to prevent irritation. Instead, alternate their use or consult a dermatologist to create a safe and effective skincare routine that includes glycolic acid.
Who should avoid using glycolic acid in their skincare routine?
Individuals with extremely sensitive skin or certain skin conditions like rosacea should avoid glycolic acid or use it under the guidance of a dermatologist. Pregnant or breastfeeding women should also consult their healthcare provider before using glycolic acid due to its potency. If you experience persistent irritation, discontinue use and seek professional advice.
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Fadima Mooneira says
Awesome knowledge sharing. I learned a lot about Glycolic acid from reading this post. You’re really are a beauty guru, babe. Keep up the good work. Reading your blog always makes me happy.
Rayo says
Awwwnnnn…. Thank you so much for your beautiful comment
Fransic verso says
Informative and surely will help people want to know about the Glycolic. First time to know about it myself and will suggest to friends if needed. Thank you!
Rayo says
Thank you
Sunshine with Savannah says
Great post with so much good information! It’s so important to know about the products we use on our skin, and what can be helpful for our needs. Thanks for sharing!
http://www.sunshinewithsavannah.com
Rayo says
Thank you
Gail Is This Mutton says
I love how you simplify skincare, it’s become very complicated. Another one to add to my list, thank you.
Lisa's Notebook says
I don’t think I’ve ever tried anything with glycolic acid – mandelic acid yes (courtesy of Wishtrend) but not glycolic. I’ve always heard good things about LaRoche Posay though, so that might be where I try it out. Fab post, so helpful, thank you!