Azelaic Acid For Skin Benefits – A Beginner’s Guide

Azelaic acid is one of the most versatile active ingredients with lots of skin benefits. Most times, It is often overlooked in the treatment of acne or rosacea but it should be one to look out for. It comes in creams, gels and foams to treat several skin conditions.

Thanks to groundbreaking research, azelaic acid has pushed through the walls and it’s now making waves in the skincare industry. It is gentle, safe, versatile and works well with other active ingredients. Known for its ability to tackle a wide range of skin concerns, from acne to hyperpigmentation, azelaic acid is a versatile addition to any skincare routine. To put it simply, azelaic acid is an overachiever.

If you’re new to this ingredient, here’s everything you need to know about incorporating azelaic acid into your routine for clear, even skin.

What Is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a plant-sourced dicarboxylic acid with mild exfoliating properties, making it effective for various skin issues. The PH of Azelaic acid is between 4 and 5, which is close to the skin’s PH. This in effect will minimize the risk of skin irritation. It is found in whole grains such as wheat, rye and barley and in trace amounts in the human body produced by a yeast called Malassezia furfur.

Azelaic is considered very effective in 15% to 20% concentrations which are found in prescription-only topicals. However, incredible benefits are also seen in lower concentrations as seen in OTC.

When combined with other actives such as AHAs, retinol, and vitamin C, it works amazingly well. It is a safer option for those who cannot tolerate hydroquinone or retinoids. It is also considered safe to use in pregnancy. To know if you can mix Azelaic acid with retinol, read how to mix Azelaic acid and Retinol together. Unlike stronger acids like glycolic or salicylic acid, azelaic acid is gentle enough for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Now let’s get to the benefits and how to use Azelaic acid in your skincare routine.

Azelaic Acid For Skin Benefits

For Rosacea

People with rosacea tend to have highly sensitive skin that is characterized by skin redness, flushing, papules, pustules and the formation of blood vessels on the face. The addition of Azelaic Acid helps to lessen the inflammation seen in rosacea.

Also, azelaic acid is known to reduce bacteria that could flare up rosacea. Even though the presence of bacteria does not cause rosacea, the reduction in the number of bacteria on the skin will reduce inflammation and scavenge free radicals to reduce redness.

If your skin cannot tolerate Azelaic acid gel or cream, you can opt for the foam. People with rosacea tend to tolerate the foam a whole lot better than the gel or cream. Read more on how to use Azelaic Acid for Rosacea

For Acne

Azelaic acid has antibacterial effects meaning it inhibits the growth of bacteria causing acne. It also works by diving deep into your pores to decrease sebum production. It is recommended for mild to moderate forms of acne.

Studies have shown that applying 20% azelaic acid cream twice daily had excellent results. This was compared with 0.05% tretinoin cream, 5% benzoyl peroxide, and 2% erythromycin in the treatment of mild to moderate acne.

It generally takes about 1 to 2 months of consistent use of azelaic acid to start seeing improvement in acne. You can use it twice daily. However, to increase the penetration of the azelaic acid, you can increase your dosage to 3 to 4 times daily or use it with other actives.

For Hyperpigmentation

For melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dark spots or sun spots – Azelaic acid is very useful in this aspect. Azelaic acid has a strong affinity for abnormal melanocytes; pigments that are contributing to the dark spots. The beauty of azelaic acid is that it will ignore normal melanocytes to fight the abnormal melanocytes.

Which is unlike hydroquinone. Hydroquinone goes for normal and abnormal melanocytes. Most times hydroquinone can result in rebound hyperpigmentation when you stop using it.

A study from the Journal of Dermatology did a double-blinded study on 329 women for 24 weeks. The study used 20% Azelaic acid in some women and 4% Hydroquinone in others together with sunscreens. The results showed 65% good results in the azelaic acid group with fewer side effects.

For Dead Skin Cells

Since Azelaic acid is keratolytic in nature, it goes deep into pores to increase the turnover rate of dead skin cells. This improves skin tone, making it brighter and smoother.

How To Use Azelaic Acid In Your Skincare Routine

Azelaic acid can be found in various forms, including gels, creams, and serums. It’s typically available in concentrations ranging from 10% to 20%, with higher concentrations often available by prescription.

Step 1: Cleanse Your Skin

Start your routine with a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and makeup. This prepares your skin for better absorption of the azelaic acid.

Step 2: Apply Azelaic Acid

After cleansing, apply azelaic acid to your face. If you’re using a 10% concentration, it’s safe to apply a thin layer all over your face. If you’re using a stronger concentration or if you have sensitive skin, it might be best to apply it only to affected areas.

Step 3: Moisturize

Follow up with a moisturizer to lock in hydration. Azelaic acid can be slightly drying, so it’s important to keep your skin moisturized.

Step 4: Don’t Forget Sunscreen

Azelaic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Always apply sunscreen with at least SPF 30 during the day to protect your skin from UV damage.

In order to boost its effectiveness, you may also apply azelaic acid with other active ingredients like your AHA (glycolic acid, lactic acid), BHA (Salicylic acid) or retinol first before applying azelaic acid. This will help azelaic acid penetrate deeply into the skin to work well. You can also mix it directly with your favourite serum or cream and apply it to every other part of your body.

NOTE: Before going over-the-counter to buy azelaic acid products for melasma, I will strongly encourage you to see your dermatologist. This is because Azelaic acid has a strong affinity for abnormal melanocytes and that includes cancerous melanocytes. There are certain types of melanoma you don’t want to tamper with.

Side Effects Of Azelaic Acid

If you are wondering whether your skin will purge when you start applying it, yes it will. This may worsen acne at the beginning but with continuous usage, it tends to subside after 4 weeks. It can be irritating, stinging, drying and sometimes itchy. You might need about 4 weeks of continuous usage before you see any real changes in your skin.

Overall, Azelaic acid is very safe, effective, pretty easy to tolerate, gentle despite stinging and irritation that occurs when you start using it in the first 4 weeks, safe in pregnancy, and can be combined with pretty much any other active ingredient.

Results will not happen overnight. Azelaic acid pretty much takes its time before you start seeing improvement on your skin. So be patient and continue

Best Azelaic Acid Products

Glytone Enhance Brightening

Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid

Cos De Baha Azelaic Acid

Urban Skin Rx Even Tone Cleansing Bar

Naturium Azelaic Acid

Conclusion

Azelaic acid is a versatile and effective ingredient that can address multiple skin concerns. Whether you’re dealing with acne, uneven skin tone, or just want to improve your skin’s texture, incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare routine can help you achieve clearer, more even-toned skin.

If you’re new to azelaic acid, start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as your skin adjusts. With consistent use, you’ll likely see noticeable improvements in your skin’s appearance.