Chemical Exfoliation – A Guide to Exfoliating Acids

If you are new to chemical exfoliants, it can be overwhelming and confusing. There are glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, mandelic acid and so much more. The Ordinary skincare, The Inkey List and more brands have these exfoliating acids in them, some mixed with other exfoliating acids. But how do know which one is best for your skin type and where do you begin?

Chemical exfoliants have become a game-changer in skincare routines, offering a more refined and effective way to slough off dead skin cells compared to physical scrubs. This post is a complete beginner’s guide to exfoliating acids that will help you understand what chemical exfoliants are, how they work, and which acids are best suited for your skin type.

What Are Chemical Exfoliants?

Chemical exfoliants are skincare products that use active ingredients, typically acids, to dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Unlike physical exfoliants, which manually remove dead skin cells through scrubbing, chemical exfoliants work at a deeper level, offering a more even and gentle exfoliation.

Physical exfoliants are those found in facial scrubs, face clothes, and exfoliating brushes. Sometimes physical exfoliation can be so strong that friction causes it to impair the skin barrier and can worsen the skin condition. Chemical exfoliants are milder and effectively exfoliate the skin, thus making your skin glow and smooth.

Why Are Exfoliating Acids Important?

Exfoliating acids in this process move fresh skin up and shed old skin. Usually, skin turns over in 2 to 3 weeks but with aging, this process is slowed down. Your skin starts thickening up, dehydration sets in, and a compromised skin barrier. That is why you need exfoliating acids in your skincare routine to help your skin do what it is supposed to do. This gives your skin that glow and smoothness.

In the long run, some of these exfoliating acids help with hyperpigmentation, acne, boost collagen and much more. So you see, you need them.

Types Of Chemical Exfoliants

There are three main types of chemical exfoliants: AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids), and PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids). Each type has its unique benefits and is suited to different skin types and concerns.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)

AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk. They work on the skin’s surface to dissolve dead skin cells, making them ideal for dry and sun-damaged skin. They are the most popular and well-established in skincare. The categories include glycolic acid, lactic, malic acid, mandelic and tartaric acids. The most important of AHA’s are glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid.

There are tonnes of AHA’s in the market from peels, toners, creams lotions. and cleansers. People usually overuse these acids because of their ease of exfoliation which tends to cause irritation due to over-exfoliation,

Glycolic acid

Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is the smallest AHA molecule, allowing it to penetrate deeply. It’s excellent for brightening the skin, improving texture, and reducing fine lines. It exfoliates the skin, boosts collagen, reduces hyperpigmentation and can be used to treat really mild acne. Glycolic acid can be irritating for those with sensitive skin type and rosacea, so please avoid it.

Glycolic acid is great for those with normal to combination skin types. If your skin is not sensitive and want to give this a try, go for products with 4 -10% concentration and use once or twice a week depending on how your skin feels. Do a patch test first and see how your skin reacts before increasing the dosage or concentration.

A great example is found in The Ordinary Glycolic 7% Toning Solution.

Lactic acid

Sourced from milk, lactic acid is slightly gentler than glycolic acid. It’s ideal for sensitive skin types and helps with hydration and evening out skin tone. If you have dry skin, try lactic acid at 5-10% concentration. You will get a nice exfoliating effect with less irritation. Your skin will be fresh, smooth and toned.

You can find Lactic acid in The Ordinary Lactic Acid.

Mandelic acid

Derived from almonds, mandelic acid has larger molecules, making it the gentlest AHA. It’s suitable for all skin types, particularly for those with sensitive skin or rosacea. What sets mandelic acid apart from other acids is that it has great anti-bacterial properties that treat acne and effective post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation properties.

You can find this in The Ordinary Mandelic and Hyaluronic acid solution.

Malic, Tartaric and Citric acid

You don’t hear much about malic acid because there is not much research on it, It works like every other AHA’s; exfoliates and smoothens the skin. It is obtained from apples and pears. Malic acid is not a superstar ingredient as a standalone, hence, it is mixed with other stronger AHAs to boost skin exfoliation. You can find it in Kate Somerville resurfacing liquid

Tartaric acid and Citric acid are very large and do not have much effect on the skin so it is often used as a stabilizer to stabilize other stronger AHA’s.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s)

BHAs are oil-soluble acids, making them perfect for penetrating oily skin and unclogging pores. The most common BHA is salicylic acid and it works best within the concentration of 1-2% with a PH of 3.

Salicylic acid

This BHA is derived from willow bark and is best known for its ability to penetrate deep into the pores to exfoliate from within. It’s particularly effective for treating acne, blackheads, and large pores. Salicylic acid goes deep into your skin pores to remove stuck dead skin cells. It is also a potent anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial making it a perfect candidate for inflamed, acne-prone and oily skin.

You can find this in The Ordinary Salicylic Acid Mask.

Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHA’s)

The new kid on the block. You can say PHA and AHA are cousins because they have similar chemical structures but they are gentler on the skin. So if you have sensitive skin and cannot use AHA, go for this, it gives similar effects to the goodness of AHA.

PHA is so good, it acts by keeping hold of water and hydrating the skin. It is super gentle, your skin does not get sun sensitive when you use this. But seriously, still, use your sunscreen.

PHA is a gluconolactone with a sibling named lactobionic. Both are great for sensitive skin, and dry skin or if you don’t have any luck with the other exfoliants, you can use this

You can find this in Inkey List PHA Toner

How To Use Chemical Exfoliants

1. Patch Test: Before introducing any new chemical exfoliant into your routine, perform a patch test to ensure you don’t have irritation or adverse reaction.
2. Start Slowly: Begin with a lower concentration (around 5% for AHAs and 1-2% for BHAs) and use it once or twice a week. Gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
3. Apply to Clean Skin: Always apply chemical exfoliants to clean, dry skin after cleansing and before moisturizing.
4. Use Sunscreen: Chemical exfoliants can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 during the day.
5. Avoid Mixing with Certain Ingredients: Be cautious about combining chemical exfoliants with other potent ingredients like retinol or vitamin C, especially if you’re new to using them. It’s best to use them on alternate days to avoid irritation.

Choosing the Right Exfoliant for Your Skin Type

• Dry Skin: Opt for AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid to remove dead skin cells and hydrate.
• Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: BHAs, particularly salicylic acid, are excellent for keeping pores clear and reducing breakouts.
• Sensitive Skin: PHAs like gluconolactone or lactic acid are gentle options that exfoliate without irritation.

Benefits of Chemical Exfoliation

• Improved Skin Texture: Regular use of chemical exfoliants can smooth rough patches and make your skin feel softer.
• Brighter Complexion: By removing dead skin cells, exfoliating acids reveal fresher, more radiant skin.
• Reduced Acne: BHAs are particularly effective in treating and preventing acne by keeping pores clear of debris.
• Fewer Fine Lines: Over time, AHAs can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by promoting cell turnover.

Conclusion

Chemical exfoliants offer a powerful way to enhance your skincare routine by promoting smoother, brighter, and clearer skin. By understanding the different types of exfoliating acids and how to use them correctly, you can choose the right product for your skin type and achieve optimal results. Always remember to start slowly and protect your skin with sunscreen.